I am search of hinges for an antique ice box that I have being restored. Does anyone have suggestions on where to find a brass hinge that is 4 5/8″ wide and 1 7/8 tall? I have looked many places but can’t find one to match all the others. Or does anyone have a suggestion on using something different or a place that makes replicas? Thanks.
Does anyone know the best way to clean plastic parts on an old trunk? Mine has what is almost certainly acetate, with black flowers and vines on what should be a white background. It is dirty and slightly yellowed.
What can I safely use to clean the plastic? (If there is something that will take the black painted flowers off, I’m fine with repainting them.)
I recently found what I believe is called a barrel stave trunk at a flea market. The trunk has patterned tin on it which has rust and some paint. I would like to restore this trunk and would appreciate any do’s and dont’s . Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hello, please browse our Hints and procedures page at http://www.shenandoahrestoration.com/Hints.html
for a start to restoring your trunk. We also have restoration books for sale, though they might not outline a restoration like you want. We are also available via phone to help .
Dismantling and clean up is going very well thanks to your hints and tips! This is a great site/blog and a wonderful resource! Thanks so much for “being there”! The ratio of bleach/water I used with the nylon brush for the smell/mildew on the inside of these trunks worked great for the smell itself, but the black mildew stains remain somewhat. Should I re-clean with a stronger bleach/water solution or just seal it with a primer such as “Kilz” to prevent re-growth and cover the black staining? I haven’t yet decided what I’d like to use to re-line these trunks, but if I decide to go with paper I don’t want the black staining to show through.
You will have to paint the inside before you paper it, Kilz is a good product. Perhaps 2 coats. I wouldnt try stronger bleach, the water used only feeds the mildew.
For cleaning plastic on a trunk I would only use soap and water,,, not a chemical, if this is acetate do not use any high evaporative rate solvent. Perhaps paint thinner mineral spirits will be OK .
In a previous post I had inquired about the re-construction of the hat box and “hinged” lid covers as far as what material(s) those are made from…one of the trunks I have has a domed hat box section on the right side of the lift out tray, but no cover on it. As well (same trunk) on the left side of the lid you can see where a section remains of what would have been a cover for a separate comparment in the lid for storage. Could you please advise what the best material would be for the re-construction of these covers?
Additionally, I’m having a difficult time finding cedar veneer just in order to price it out as thought for re-lining once complete. Found everything else BUT cedar (pine, birch, oak). Any suggestions?
Just noticed that you had said cedap PANELLING and not veneer as I had first thought…sorry about that – I did find a resource for cedar panelling to price that out. Still need a tip as to what material to use to re-construct the hat box and “hinged” lid comparment tops/covers though. Wanted to confirm something as well…when you talk about re-lining in fabric for these trunks, does “poster board” refer to what some of us older folks here in Canada call “bristol board”? That and do you only use 3M spray glue for the fabric to poster board or is the 3M spray glue also the recommended fashion to then glue the poster board with the fabric on it to the wood on the inside of the trunk (or should regular white glue be used for that purpose?)
For tray lids we use artist board. It is found in art supply or hobby stores. Usually with a canvas embossing on one side, it is 1/8″ thick. If the lid is round the board can be made wet and it will dry to the shape by allowing it to dry while strapped to the tray. Cover in paper after it is curved, front and back. For fabric lining we use poster board that kids in school use for projects, about 30″ square. Do not use white glue as it will wrinkle the board. Use 3M on the board and the fabric. For lid compartment we use 1/4″ plywood to make these, as these were more substantial and heavier.
I have a number of brass embelishments on one of my trunks that have a low-medium amount of rust on them. I’m nerous about sanding/wiring as I really don’t want to lose the brass finish. Will these retain the look of brass (gold coloured) if they’re sanded? If not, how do I restore a brass-looking finish?
Should I wait until the exterior of the trunk is completely sanded/stripped/wired before sealing the interior with primer, or does that matter? (Obviously I’d have to wait for the primer to be completely dry before attempting the exterior if that were the case). Sorry for all the questions but I really don’t want to “harm” these historical trunks or proceed incorrectly and do something that might actually risk their future speedy decay…because I want them to last at least another 100 years when I’m done with them and I’m very much a “do it right the first time” type of person
I recommend Minwax wipe on Poly or tung oil for coating the trunk after restoration. Brass plating will come off if done too hard with wire brushes etc. There isnt a realistic looking finish that will replace the brass. Paints end up looking fake.
It doesnt matter when the inside is sealed as long as it is done prior to papering the inside.
What is the best method for painting flat tin sections still attached to the trunk- spray paint or polyfoam brush? I’d like to achieve a nice smooth surface without any brush marks. The long corner pieces are still attached currently, should they be removed as I’d like to paint those a different colour than the larger surfaces? Should corner caps be removed also – I had planned on leaving those unpainted – or can I mask off sections per colour/finish desired?
I thought Tung Oil etc. was just for use on wood surfaces as a protectant…I can use this on the tin sections that I’m not painting for rust protection also?
#21 by Barbara Blankenship on August 4, 2010 - 1:20 am
I just bought a great canvas covered flat-top trunk (complete with tray, no less!) in fairly good shape. OK, it does need some work but it’s not too daunting a task.
I did Read your hints & tips page (great help – thanks) but I have a couple of questions:
Since the the trunk is for the most part intact, do I necessarily have to remove the slats, metal bits etc. to repaint the canvass – or can I just go ahead and paint around the slats & metal bits?
Should I use an oil based paint – or can I use a laytex based paint?
Can I use an oil-based shellac as my final finish for the canvass and wood slats?
One bit of advice by the way – remember to use acid free products for lining your trunk to prevent acidic bleed-through onto your treasures that are stored in it. Additionally, if you use your trunk to store papers (old books, letters, scrapbooks etc.) even old linnens etc. be sure to put them in acid free “archival” boxes and then place them in the trunk. Also, liberally sprinkle baking soda (yes, Arm & Hammer) between sheets of paper and use acid-free tissues between folds of cloth.
Finally, please do not put your treasures into plastic containers/bags (especially resealable bags) before placing in your trunk. Oh, and always use archivists gloves when handling fragile treasures. The oils in your hands will literally eat them away.
I would spray small areas and paint with a bristle brush any large ones. For a different color just mask the painted area off and paint gently up to the tape line. Remove caps if you can not get the paint to go on properly around them.
You can mask the areas not getting paint and use a small artist’s brush to get into small areas and not have to remove the hardware or slats on your trunk. Oil based or latex.. either is fine.
Oil based is best on final finish, as water based paints sometimes shrinks canvas.
Thanks for the tips on acid free papers, etc
I have two other large trunks that I’m going to be working on as well and have only just begun the process of stripping the old paper linings out. One of which I may reconstruct the lift out tray for due it’s poor condition but the final decision hasn’t been made yet on that.
I was certain that I’d be able to do this and I’m very excited to see the progress as it happens. Without the help I’ve received here I think my confidence in myself may have faltered a little before now but it hasn’t at all, and has only become greater thanks to the great hints and tips page and the fantastic advice given here…I simply can’t thank you enough! I’m having a great time with these!!
Cathy, thank you for that wonderful comment! Your pictures are very nice and looks like you are moving along great. We are happy to offer any help you might need.
Started work on stripping out some truly nasty paper work on the largest of the trunks I have. If you’re interested to see the progress photos for this one, you can find them in this album (I have an album for each individual trunk): http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=465515&id=659535082&l=4c880f153c
Actually, if you could take a gander at the lift-out tray “after” shots at the end, and give my some thoughts and opinions on it that would be great. I would like to keep these trunks as “authentic” as possible, but the planks used to construct this tray are in REALLY rough shape, as well as a number of other damaging factors against it. I’m definitely leaning toward a re-build with it. However, I would love to have some clarification on whether or not the small section at the front of this tray (that runs it’s full length and through under the hat box section) was for something like parasol storage…or if it’s just a poorly designed re-build since I know the walls of the hat box section aren’t original.
Cathy, I think you are righ ton target here. Probably the area was for parasol storage. I dont think it was a bad rebuild. The hatbox has an area there also. Many trays and lic compartments were very elaborate with jewelry areas, etc. Some trunks had document envelopes installed.
#30 by Barbara Blankenship on August 7, 2010 - 8:09 pm
Thanks so much for your advice. You’re more than generous! My flat-top trunk is coming along nicely. All the paper in the trunk is stripped out, I’ll be laying in new linnen strips between the planks in prep for papering.
Thanks again for your help. I’ll send photos of the process.
Some ponderings on fabric linings…I am assuming that in order to do lap joints and the “rollover” on the edges of sides/front/back that you would leave the fabric free (without poster board backer) in order to get the flexibility required? Second on that is if re-lining with fabric, can/should the tray also be re-lined with fabric or should it just be done with paper…or is this a matter of personal taste? I know it doesn’t add much to the trunk or tray to do the fabric and poster board just wondering about trays due to the additional (albeit minimal) substance added to them.
By “free” I mean only have the poster board backer on the fabric in those areas that will lay flat, and leave an additional inch or inch and a half of fabric free (floppy) off of the edges of the poster board that has fabric glued to it – the same way you would leave extra for joints if using paper. Sorry, should have clarified that a little more.
Free fabric can be left on the edges to wrap the corner. We have also put a strip of fabric along each corner top to bottom before the fabric covered board is applied. In this case, butt the board in the corner, the fabric behind the joint will obscure any gap.
We usually do not cover the trays with fabric, paper here.
I was given and old steam trunk and the bottom was completely rotted out. I’ve since spent a lot of time restoring it and will soon be ordering the leather handles and straps to finish it up. If I can post a picture, can someone at your company help me date the trunk or tell me who the manufacturer was? There are no labels or any markings to be found. Thank you.
Starting a canvas covered trunk restoration somebody help! what are the leather side pieces called Can I get these? Big brass buttons too! I have some experience but this one is different. Help.??
Hello, we have brass button nails for your trunk. Leather corner wrap we do not have, but leather is available at Tandy Leather online.
Also try the trunk hardware index at the site and our Hints and Procedures page.
When using tongue and groove cedar planks to line a trunk, what sequence should be used (bottom first, front and back second, sides last, or other???)? Or should corners be cut on 45 degree angles?
Bottom first, then go completely around the trunk with one layer, all 4 sides. Then another layer, all around, starting from the bottom up. Alternate the joints so that they do not line up from layer to layer. No need to 45 deg corners. Butt joints are fine
Hello, we sell split rivets at the website, on the same page as trunk nails. Most rivets need to be drilled out and usually a hammer and backup steel is all that is needed to install. We sell split rivet caps also for the inside of the trunk.
Be sure you get the correct length rivets. Rivet is longer than the thickness of the trunk plus what you are riveting on.
just sent some pictures of my canvas flat top project, this blog and your helpful hints have given me a good idea where to start. i just need some idea of tools and cleaning products etc to use. most all my brass is in place as are all the nails. will be adding new handles. i do want to repaint the canvas and especially like the green color on one of your before and after pictures. can you tell me the name of the color and where i can get it. Also is the finish rubbed on bees wax, tungseed oil or a shellac?
thanks
i have a question. when you put the metal banding/strips on the trunk, how do you tighten the band? do you tack both ends down first and then go back and tack along the strip?
what do you cover where the two ends meet with?
thanks
andy
Andy, start at the center on the front, and nail as you go right and left. On new banding the holes have to be drilled first. On the back the ends are lapped and a rivet used to fasten the ends. If fitted properly the band can be riveted first and then installed to be nailed on the trunk.
what do you use to cover the riveted section. so if its cut properly and bent properly you can rivet it together and slide it over the top in one piece?
andy
Usually the riveted area is not covered. The bent and riveted band can be manuvered into place. Make the corners rounded, not a sharp corner. Clamp into place as you form the band, rivet, remove for drilling and install with nails.
i’m new to this so sorry for so many questions, i just want to do it right.
what is the best way to clean the canvas covering? should the canvas be primed with rustoleum primer before painting with rustoleum hunt club green.
thanks again
#1 by Dawn on July 27, 2010 - 12:31 am
Quote
I am search of hinges for an antique ice box that I have being restored. Does anyone have suggestions on where to find a brass hinge that is 4 5/8″ wide and 1 7/8 tall? I have looked many places but can’t find one to match all the others. Or does anyone have a suggestion on using something different or a place that makes replicas? Thanks.
#2 by Administrator on July 27, 2010 - 12:42 am
Quote
Hello, we sell a Icebox hinge that is 4″ x 1-5/8″. It might be difficult to find a direct replacement.
B-2087 is our item number.
#3 by Geisha_Girl on July 30, 2010 - 12:32 am
Quote
Does anyone know the best way to clean plastic parts on an old trunk? Mine has what is almost certainly acetate, with black flowers and vines on what should be a white background. It is dirty and slightly yellowed.
What can I safely use to clean the plastic? (If there is something that will take the black painted flowers off, I’m fine with repainting them.)
#4 by Richard Auchard on July 30, 2010 - 7:25 pm
Quote
I recently found what I believe is called a barrel stave trunk at a flea market. The trunk has patterned tin on it which has rust and some paint. I would like to restore this trunk and would appreciate any do’s and dont’s . Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
#5 by Administrator on July 30, 2010 - 7:34 pm
Quote
Hello, please browse our Hints and procedures page at http://www.shenandoahrestoration.com/Hints.html
for a start to restoring your trunk. We also have restoration books for sale, though they might not outline a restoration like you want. We are also available via phone to help .
#6 by Cathy on July 30, 2010 - 10:02 pm
Quote
Dismantling and clean up is going very well thanks to your hints and tips! This is a great site/blog and a wonderful resource! Thanks so much for “being there”! The ratio of bleach/water I used with the nylon brush for the smell/mildew on the inside of these trunks worked great for the smell itself, but the black mildew stains remain somewhat. Should I re-clean with a stronger bleach/water solution or just seal it with a primer such as “Kilz” to prevent re-growth and cover the black staining? I haven’t yet decided what I’d like to use to re-line these trunks, but if I decide to go with paper I don’t want the black staining to show through.
#7 by Administrator on July 30, 2010 - 10:38 pm
Quote
You will have to paint the inside before you paper it, Kilz is a good product. Perhaps 2 coats. I wouldnt try stronger bleach, the water used only feeds the mildew.
#8 by Administrator on July 30, 2010 - 10:40 pm
Quote
For cleaning plastic on a trunk I would only use soap and water,,, not a chemical, if this is acetate do not use any high evaporative rate solvent. Perhaps paint thinner mineral spirits will be OK .
#9 by Cathy on July 31, 2010 - 4:18 am
Quote
In a previous post I had inquired about the re-construction of the hat box and “hinged” lid covers as far as what material(s) those are made from…one of the trunks I have has a domed hat box section on the right side of the lift out tray, but no cover on it. As well (same trunk) on the left side of the lid you can see where a section remains of what would have been a cover for a separate comparment in the lid for storage. Could you please advise what the best material would be for the re-construction of these covers?
Additionally, I’m having a difficult time finding cedar veneer just in order to price it out as thought for re-lining once complete. Found everything else BUT cedar (pine, birch, oak). Any suggestions?
#10 by Cathy on July 31, 2010 - 6:44 pm
Quote
Just noticed that you had said cedap PANELLING and not veneer as I had first thought…sorry about that – I did find a resource for cedar panelling to price that out. Still need a tip as to what material to use to re-construct the hat box and “hinged” lid comparment tops/covers though. Wanted to confirm something as well…when you talk about re-lining in fabric for these trunks, does “poster board” refer to what some of us older folks here in Canada call “bristol board”? That and do you only use 3M spray glue for the fabric to poster board or is the 3M spray glue also the recommended fashion to then glue the poster board with the fabric on it to the wood on the inside of the trunk (or should regular white glue be used for that purpose?)
#11 by Administrator on July 31, 2010 - 8:28 pm
Quote
For tray lids we use artist board. It is found in art supply or hobby stores. Usually with a canvas embossing on one side, it is 1/8″ thick. If the lid is round the board can be made wet and it will dry to the shape by allowing it to dry while strapped to the tray. Cover in paper after it is curved, front and back. For fabric lining we use poster board that kids in school use for projects, about 30″ square. Do not use white glue as it will wrinkle the board. Use 3M on the board and the fabric. For lid compartment we use 1/4″ plywood to make these, as these were more substantial and heavier.
#12 by Administrator on July 31, 2010 - 8:30 pm
Quote
We use cedar paneling, tongue and groove, 1/4″ thick and about 4″ wide, sold in boxes in home improvement stores.
#13 by Cathy on August 1, 2010 - 7:40 pm
Quote
That’s wonderfully helpful, thanks so much!
#14 by Cathy on August 1, 2010 - 7:41 pm
Quote
What do you recommend coating tin with if it’s not going to be painted, in order to block the re-formation of rust etc.?
#15 by Cathy on August 1, 2010 - 7:45 pm
Quote
I have a number of brass embelishments on one of my trunks that have a low-medium amount of rust on them. I’m nerous about sanding/wiring as I really don’t want to lose the brass finish. Will these retain the look of brass (gold coloured) if they’re sanded? If not, how do I restore a brass-looking finish?
#16 by Cathy on August 1, 2010 - 7:50 pm
Quote
Should I wait until the exterior of the trunk is completely sanded/stripped/wired before sealing the interior with primer, or does that matter? (Obviously I’d have to wait for the primer to be completely dry before attempting the exterior if that were the case). Sorry for all the questions but I really don’t want to “harm” these historical trunks or proceed incorrectly and do something that might actually risk their future speedy decay…because I want them to last at least another 100 years when I’m done with them and I’m very much a “do it right the first time” type of person
#17 by Administrator on August 2, 2010 - 3:13 am
Quote
I recommend Minwax wipe on Poly or tung oil for coating the trunk after restoration. Brass plating will come off if done too hard with wire brushes etc. There isnt a realistic looking finish that will replace the brass. Paints end up looking fake.
It doesnt matter when the inside is sealed as long as it is done prior to papering the inside.
#18 by Cathy on August 2, 2010 - 7:08 pm
Quote
What is the best method for painting flat tin sections still attached to the trunk- spray paint or polyfoam brush? I’d like to achieve a nice smooth surface without any brush marks. The long corner pieces are still attached currently, should they be removed as I’d like to paint those a different colour than the larger surfaces? Should corner caps be removed also – I had planned on leaving those unpainted – or can I mask off sections per colour/finish desired?
#19 by Cathy on August 2, 2010 - 7:11 pm
Quote
Is Tremclad the best paint product for painting this tin, and do I need to use primer before paiting tin that has been sanded bare of paint & rust?
#20 by Cathy on August 2, 2010 - 7:13 pm
Quote
I thought Tung Oil etc. was just for use on wood surfaces as a protectant…I can use this on the tin sections that I’m not painting for rust protection also?
#21 by Barbara Blankenship on August 4, 2010 - 1:20 am
Quote
I just bought a great canvas covered flat-top trunk (complete with tray, no less!) in fairly good shape. OK, it does need some work but it’s not too daunting a task.
I did Read your hints & tips page (great help – thanks) but I have a couple of questions:
Since the the trunk is for the most part intact, do I necessarily have to remove the slats, metal bits etc. to repaint the canvass – or can I just go ahead and paint around the slats & metal bits?
Should I use an oil based paint – or can I use a laytex based paint?
Can I use an oil-based shellac as my final finish for the canvass and wood slats?
One bit of advice by the way – remember to use acid free products for lining your trunk to prevent acidic bleed-through onto your treasures that are stored in it. Additionally, if you use your trunk to store papers (old books, letters, scrapbooks etc.) even old linnens etc. be sure to put them in acid free “archival” boxes and then place them in the trunk. Also, liberally sprinkle baking soda (yes, Arm & Hammer) between sheets of paper and use acid-free tissues between folds of cloth.
Finally, please do not put your treasures into plastic containers/bags (especially resealable bags) before placing in your trunk. Oh, and always use archivists gloves when handling fragile treasures. The oils in your hands will literally eat them away.
#22 by Administrator on August 4, 2010 - 2:28 am
Quote
I would spray small areas and paint with a bristle brush any large ones. For a different color just mask the painted area off and paint gently up to the tape line. Remove caps if you can not get the paint to go on properly around them.
#23 by Administrator on August 4, 2010 - 2:29 am
Quote
We use Rustoleum, either latex or Oil based. Prime any area before painting to make sure paint will take on the surface.
#24 by Administrator on August 4, 2010 - 2:29 am
Quote
Tung oil can be used on any areas, tin, wood, canvas, etc.
#25 by Administrator on August 4, 2010 - 2:33 am
Quote
You can mask the areas not getting paint and use a small artist’s brush to get into small areas and not have to remove the hardware or slats on your trunk. Oil based or latex.. either is fine.
Oil based is best on final finish, as water based paints sometimes shrinks canvas.
Thanks for the tips on acid free papers, etc
#26 by Cathy on August 4, 2010 - 7:49 am
Quote
If anyone’s interested to see the progress of the child-sized trunk I’m currently working on I have a photo album for it posted here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=465517&id=659535082&l=e74fcd30cb
Also, there’s another album for one of the larger trunks that I’ve made some progress with here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=465516&id=659535082&l=a60c632bc4
I have two other large trunks that I’m going to be working on as well and have only just begun the process of stripping the old paper linings out. One of which I may reconstruct the lift out tray for due it’s poor condition but the final decision hasn’t been made yet on that.
I was certain that I’d be able to do this and I’m very excited to see the progress as it happens. Without the help I’ve received here I think my confidence in myself may have faltered a little before now but it hasn’t at all, and has only become greater thanks to the great hints and tips page and the fantastic advice given here…I simply can’t thank you enough! I’m having a great time with these!!
#27 by Administrator on August 4, 2010 - 8:10 am
Quote
Cathy, thank you for that wonderful comment! Your pictures are very nice and looks like you are moving along great. We are happy to offer any help you might need.
#28 by Cathy on August 5, 2010 - 9:27 pm
Quote
Started work on stripping out some truly nasty paper work on the largest of the trunks I have. If you’re interested to see the progress photos for this one, you can find them in this album (I have an album for each individual trunk): http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=465515&id=659535082&l=4c880f153c
Actually, if you could take a gander at the lift-out tray “after” shots at the end, and give my some thoughts and opinions on it that would be great. I would like to keep these trunks as “authentic” as possible, but the planks used to construct this tray are in REALLY rough shape, as well as a number of other damaging factors against it. I’m definitely leaning toward a re-build with it. However, I would love to have some clarification on whether or not the small section at the front of this tray (that runs it’s full length and through under the hat box section) was for something like parasol storage…or if it’s just a poorly designed re-build since I know the walls of the hat box section aren’t original.
Any thoughts?
#29 by Administrator on August 6, 2010 - 2:12 am
Quote
Cathy, I think you are righ ton target here. Probably the area was for parasol storage. I dont think it was a bad rebuild. The hatbox has an area there also. Many trays and lic compartments were very elaborate with jewelry areas, etc. Some trunks had document envelopes installed.
#30 by Barbara Blankenship on August 7, 2010 - 8:09 pm
Quote
Thanks so much for your advice. You’re more than generous! My flat-top trunk is coming along nicely. All the paper in the trunk is stripped out, I’ll be laying in new linnen strips between the planks in prep for papering.
Thanks again for your help. I’ll send photos of the process.
#31 by Cathy on August 10, 2010 - 1:16 pm
Quote
Some ponderings on fabric linings…I am assuming that in order to do lap joints and the “rollover” on the edges of sides/front/back that you would leave the fabric free (without poster board backer) in order to get the flexibility required? Second on that is if re-lining with fabric, can/should the tray also be re-lined with fabric or should it just be done with paper…or is this a matter of personal taste? I know it doesn’t add much to the trunk or tray to do the fabric and poster board just wondering about trays due to the additional (albeit minimal) substance added to them.
#32 by Cathy on August 10, 2010 - 1:23 pm
Quote
By “free” I mean only have the poster board backer on the fabric in those areas that will lay flat, and leave an additional inch or inch and a half of fabric free (floppy) off of the edges of the poster board that has fabric glued to it – the same way you would leave extra for joints if using paper. Sorry, should have clarified that a little more.
#33 by Administrator on August 11, 2010 - 8:11 am
Quote
Free fabric can be left on the edges to wrap the corner. We have also put a strip of fabric along each corner top to bottom before the fabric covered board is applied. In this case, butt the board in the corner, the fabric behind the joint will obscure any gap.
We usually do not cover the trays with fabric, paper here.
#34 by Ron on August 16, 2010 - 2:30 am
Quote
I was given and old steam trunk and the bottom was completely rotted out. I’ve since spent a lot of time restoring it and will soon be ordering the leather handles and straps to finish it up. If I can post a picture, can someone at your company help me date the trunk or tell me who the manufacturer was? There are no labels or any markings to be found. Thank you.
#35 by Administrator on August 16, 2010 - 6:32 am
Quote
Please send your pictures to the site email info@shenandoahrestoration.com and we will give it a shot.
#36 by blythe ehtridge on September 11, 2010 - 7:51 am
Quote
Starting a canvas covered trunk restoration somebody help! what are the leather side pieces called Can I get these? Big brass buttons too! I have some experience but this one is different. Help.??
#37 by Administrator on September 12, 2010 - 12:13 am
Quote
Hello, we have brass button nails for your trunk. Leather corner wrap we do not have, but leather is available at Tandy Leather online.
Also try the trunk hardware index at the site and our Hints and Procedures page.
Call any time for help via phone
Shenandoah
#38 by Karla on September 21, 2010 - 12:20 am
Quote
When using tongue and groove cedar planks to line a trunk, what sequence should be used (bottom first, front and back second, sides last, or other???)? Or should corners be cut on 45 degree angles?
#39 by Administrator on September 21, 2010 - 5:33 am
Quote
Bottom first, then go completely around the trunk with one layer, all 4 sides. Then another layer, all around, starting from the bottom up. Alternate the joints so that they do not line up from layer to layer. No need to 45 deg corners. Butt joints are fine
#40 by Karen Coffee on October 7, 2010 - 6:20 pm
Quote
How do you replace rivets on a trunk and where do I get them? Also, is there a special tool you need to add and replace some rivets?
Thanks
#41 by Administrator on October 11, 2010 - 3:23 am
Quote
Hello, we sell split rivets at the website, on the same page as trunk nails. Most rivets need to be drilled out and usually a hammer and backup steel is all that is needed to install. We sell split rivet caps also for the inside of the trunk.
Be sure you get the correct length rivets. Rivet is longer than the thickness of the trunk plus what you are riveting on.
#42 by andy on November 2, 2010 - 12:25 pm
Quote
just sent some pictures of my canvas flat top project, this blog and your helpful hints have given me a good idea where to start. i just need some idea of tools and cleaning products etc to use. most all my brass is in place as are all the nails. will be adding new handles. i do want to repaint the canvas and especially like the green color on one of your before and after pictures. can you tell me the name of the color and where i can get it. Also is the finish rubbed on bees wax, tungseed oil or a shellac?
thanks
#43 by andy on November 2, 2010 - 12:27 pm
Quote
one more question. is it best to remove the rust by hand brushing and steel wool, or to use naval jelly?
#44 by Administrator on November 2, 2010 - 6:16 pm
Quote
Hello, we use a wire wheel on a drill for rust, unless it is very thin.
#45 by Administrator on November 2, 2010 - 6:23 pm
Quote
Most of the green we use is Hunt Club green by Rustoleum, I think it is the American Accents sub brand.
The finish is Minwax Rub on Poly.
#46 by andy on November 5, 2010 - 8:04 am
Quote
i have a question. when you put the metal banding/strips on the trunk, how do you tighten the band? do you tack both ends down first and then go back and tack along the strip?
what do you cover where the two ends meet with?
thanks
andy
#47 by Administrator on November 5, 2010 - 6:35 pm
Quote
Andy, start at the center on the front, and nail as you go right and left. On new banding the holes have to be drilled first. On the back the ends are lapped and a rivet used to fasten the ends. If fitted properly the band can be riveted first and then installed to be nailed on the trunk.
#48 by andy on November 5, 2010 - 7:33 pm
Quote
what do you use to cover the riveted section. so if its cut properly and bent properly you can rivet it together and slide it over the top in one piece?
andy
#49 by Administrator on November 5, 2010 - 7:55 pm
Quote
Usually the riveted area is not covered. The bent and riveted band can be manuvered into place. Make the corners rounded, not a sharp corner. Clamp into place as you form the band, rivet, remove for drilling and install with nails.
#50 by andy on November 5, 2010 - 9:44 pm
Quote
i’m new to this so sorry for so many questions, i just want to do it right.
what is the best way to clean the canvas covering? should the canvas be primed with rustoleum primer before painting with rustoleum hunt club green.
thanks again