Recently obtained an old trunk that I believe to be made by Springfield Trunk Maker, Springfield, Illinois.
Most of the trunk hardware was originally COPPER plated. Would it be practical to attempt to retain as much of the COPPER as possible? How would you attempt to clean it?
Any idea on where to find information on the Springfield Illinois trunk maker would also be appreciated.
Don Worthen
Surprise, AZ
Hello, I do not have a refer. for Springfield, other than it was as early as 1886 when they made trunks. I would try to retain as much copper plating as possible. Go easy on cleaning and buffing to keep the plating intact.
Steelwool, fine abrasive pads, very fine wire brushes, will clean the metal and not remove the copper. Be aware that copper is very soft and thus comes off easy.
Gary
Shenandoah Rest.
Hello, we usually check stock at http://www.muffshardware.com for these. Muffs has some old parts pics on boards at the site. Have to call to buy them.
We have a tin embossed trunk much like the one shown on your website that we would like to restore. What kind of cleaner would you reccommend for the metal. how much would it cost if we sent the trunk to you for resto?
What is the best way to clean tin on an old trunk. It is lightly rusted. You mentioned mineral spirits and kotton klenser with steel wool in the above blog. Can you tell me how to do that? Our tin is not embossed just flat tin over much of trunk.
It comes down to the question of whether you decide to paint the tin or not. If painted we sand lightly to smooth then use a chemical to turn the rust to a black primer and make it stop rusting. It is usually called Extend and sold in auto parts stores.
We prime and paint over it.
If not painting, you can use a sander or wire wheel on a drill to wear away the rust, then clean off and clear coat over the tin.
Mineral spirits and Kotton Klenser will work on very lightly rusted tin to clean it, it will also work on paint to clean up. Apply with steel wool and wipe clean afterward.
We do not plan on painting it SO any more details about a sander or wire wheel? I have heard about brass bristles so the tin remains undamaged, but can you give me details. I did not see any for sale on your site. After I reach an acceptable look what do I put on the surface? You have metal polishes. Is that what I should use?
A fine wire wheel will do fine, brass is not necessary. Just use a Cup wire wheel in an electric drill. A 2-3″ inch wheel will work best. After the look is acheived, clean well and clear coat with a varnish, or polyurethane to seal the metal from moisture.
Do you recommend naval jelly for use on rusted tin? I haven’t decided yet whether or not to paint the tin. I assume that whatever I do with the rust, I will have to remove the wood slats over the tin to deal with any rust underneath? I spoke with the manufacturer of extend and was told that it should only be used in the rusted areas. If used on metal without rust, then it can cause rust. I am wondering it I heard correctly. Does this fit with your experience?
Naval jelly can be used, we have better results with Extend. It is not needed on rust free metal, however some on it wont make a problem if the part is primed with a Rustoleum primer and painted. Everyones definition of rust is not the same, even a slight discoloration can be beginning rust.
Wood slats and some hardware on tin should be removed to completely get all the rust addressed.
there is an old print in the lid of my trunk that I would like to try to keep. It is in fragile condition. How can I strengthen and preserve what is left of it.
We usually use a product called Mod Podge available at Craft stores. Paint it on over the print and it will stiffen it and encase it in a clear fixative. You can also use Elmers glue and squirt behind the print with a needle syringe to glue it back to the lid.
Starting a restoration on a 1800′s family trunk. The metal banding used is 4 1/2″ wide. I am looking for product to match. Any ideas where to get this?
Is that a typo or is the banding really 4-1/2″ wide? I have no resource for that size banding. Tin covering on the outside is sold in sheets at hardware stores.
Shenandoah Restoration
Inspired to restore my recent project, an old trunk. The inside liner was backed with an old newspaper that had an article about Casper Henning a trustee of Gideons. The internet revealed information about Henning from a 1941 American Churches yearbook. My antique trunk book discusses trunks from 1790 to 1930. How long did they make trunks after 1930? or could my trunk have been relined? If only these old trunks could talk.
Most trunk mfg stopped after 1930, a few held on and some are still made today. Generally only very old trunks were lined in newspaper. This trunk might have been re-lined later on.
Great website! I have a dome top trunk that has original paper on the areas between the wood slats and steel bands. (It was probably used to cover a lesser quality wood.) Most of the paper has flaked off. What do you suggest? Strip off all of the paper and use paste wax on the wood? Thank you in advance.
We have removed the paper on a trunk like this, painted it white and re-papered the entire trunk. A tea stain coating afterward will yellow and age the paper. If you want the wood appearance, of course you can finish the wood. Make sure the wood is a type that will look nice after a stain and top coat.
Thank you for your compliment on the website.
Shenandoah Restoration
I am restoring a steamer trunk. It has a large lengthwise crack in the lid. How can I shore it up? Gluing it will not do the job. Thanks for any advice.
Glueing and clamping a wide crack will only warp the lid out of shape, the wood has dried out and shrunk. We usually fill the crack with wood filler, sand and re-line the lid over the top of it. You can also shape a piece of wood to insert into the crack and use wood filler to complete the job. Last, a thin veneer can be used over the entire lid to cover the existing wood and the crack also.
I’m working on a old trunk that was in storage for some time. The outside is coming along (waiting on parts from you!) but the inside STINKS! I plan to line it with cedar but want to get rid of the smell first. Any thoughts.
First make a solution of water and vinegar and spray the paper lining down. Scrape the paper out after it is wet with a paint scraper. Let dry and spray the wood down with a bleach/water solution. After dry paint the surface with any color paint or varnish.
Cedar over the painted surface after it is dry.
My wife just obtained a trunk from her Mother that we need help identifying/restoring. We’ve been told it was used by her ancestors when they came to America from Ireland 200 years ago. It’s not in terrible shape, but it isn’t great either.
What are some identifying factors?
We would very much like to restore the trunk, but don’t know where to start.
Help?
A good way to identify is with the Trunk ID book sold at the site. Item A-0041 and A-0040 at our web store. One of these books is a restoration “how to” manual the other is a Trunk ID and value manual.
Solid wood trunks are the oldest, followed by leather covered, then tin and canvas covered.
We also have a page at the website that outlines basic restoration. It is the Hints and Procedures page at http://www.shenandoahrestoration.com/Hints.html
I was advised to get myself a “box” to put my most prized possessions in. Being a sucker for historical items naturally my first thought turned to a steamer trunk for the purpose. After some hunting around a large geographic area I have managed to find and aquire 2 steamer trunks of different sizes (and a 3rd is on the way too, I was so taken by them). All of these trunks are tin with oak slats and two with only light rust but the third is almost entirely rusted out. I have to admit that I’m a bit nervous about sanding or wiring in order to get the rust off as the midsections of these trunks are all embossed tin. Should I be concerned abotu the amount of pressure I use and is there a solvent or cleaner that will aid with such a “scrubbing” without going to Extend? I also noticed that in an earlier posting you mentioned that removal of the slats is best to accomplish this, how is this best accomplished without denting or bending the tin underneath? Is there a tool that’s best to “pry” the slats off with or is it simply a matter of using the tack remover and trying to get them off by tack removal alone? On the inside of these trunks the curled tacks are barely visible in order to nip the ends for removal…it’s as if the wood has grown around the curled ends of the tacks over the years. Sorry it’s so long – but I’m truly excited to do this and eccstatic to have found your site where I can get replacement hardware and the like! Thanks!!
Secondary to my previous post is the fact that one of the trunks’ leather handles…while they are still intact they could stand replacement although I hate to do this without first finding out the significance (if any) of the number that has been permanently embossed into the leather itself. I believe it’s 3069 and it’s the same number on both handles, on the visible sides of these handles (on the outside clearly visible to the eye). Does this number hold any significance to the trunk itse;f or is it merely a manufacturer’s ID having regard to the leather tanner? Thanks.
We often see numbers embossed into leather handles. This is a part number for the handle maker of that day. As far as we know it has no relevance to the trunk.
Congrats, Rotary wire wheels or wire brushes will not dent tin unless it is rusted very badly. Naval Jelly can be used on rust, but it should be followed by Extend if you are painting the tin. For wood slat removal use the tack lifter to lift the nail head then pull the nail with the nipper pliers. No need to cut off the nail inside. The nail will straighten as it comes out. This will sometimes dent the wood slat, in this condition use a small soft wood shim to pry against. Also use the wood shim under the pliers to pry out nails on tin. Some will break off and the remaining nail can be taken off the inside easily. Install the same slat in the same position with new nails.
I would like to know if anyone knows the value of an Edison Disc Phonograph Model @C250 … I have one and a lot of records to go with it also…. It is in excellent condition… I would love to sell it, if anyone would like to purchase it…. Thank You
Thanks for the advice on tack removal, it was MOST helpful and just confirmed what I had in my mind as the method for removal. Last night I spent 4-1/2 hours on the first of these three trunks removing the paper lining (x2 since someone had re-lined it over top of the original lining) and it’s now down to the bare pine. (I had done as you advised with tack removal and the lid stay and hinges came off with very minimal damage inside and out. Used a vinegar and water solution in a misting bottle to “wet” the lining and a scraper to remove the paper. The mouldy/mildewy smell inside the trunk is now not as pungent. Hoping for a sunny day today so I can set it out in the sun as well, but it will need a bleach and water solution as well as mould and mildew staining is still visible and would re-grow. What would you recommend as a mix ration for this solution? (water to bleach) 3:1, 2:1, 4:1? Is there a type of cloth or “scrubbing” utensil that’s best for giving the interior rough pine a “washing” for the purpose of getting rid of the mould/mildew, or just use a sturdy rag?
Ok thanks. I have a lift out tray in the largest of these three trunks that’s going to need to have the “hat box” cover re-built, as well as the section to the left in the dome lid (a new cover). What material is best to use for this purpose to obtain the curve of the hat box cover and light enough to be the lid section (flap) cover?
Where might I look on these trunks in order to determine who the original manufacturer was? Is there ever any sort of a craftsman’s mark or maker’s identification etc.? I’d love to be able to give them an age range and possibly trace them back some more. The information I have on their history is currently very limited. The one that I bought from it’s previous owner didn’t even have a history of how he came upon the trunk or how long he’d had it himself.
Clean up has gone very well so far with your wonderful hints and tips page as well as this blog page, thank you ever so much. I do have one big question though…in the process of restoring this trunk, am I supposed to be removing EVERYTHING and just take it right down to the bare pine box in order to complete it, or leave any of the flat surfaces on after removing oak strapping and decorative embelishments?
Thank you ! Actually we just updated the Hints page. Remove only the hardware and slats. Flat and embossed tin does not need to be removed, although some paint processes are easier on embossed tin when removed.
Most trunks do not have a makers tag or label. Almost every town had a trunk maker and most did not put a label in them. Only the larger companies did this.
That’s great to know! For a bit there I thought I was going to be seeing a naked pine box before I was able to make further progress. Last night I acquired a very small trunk (possibly a salesman’s sample case or ladies cosmetics case…I’ve no idea of it’s original intended use but would love to find out!) I purchased it from a gentleman who bought it at an estate auction himself, so he doesn’t know it’s purpose or history. On the hasp type lockset (and it looks like it’s the original – once a polished brass) is stamped the manufacturer, “Excelsior, USA, Stampford Conn.” But I can’t see a part number anywhere in order to obtain a replacement for the missing key. It was most interesting reading the history of the Excelsior Hardware Co for sure, and that enabled me to estimate a jumping off point for dating for this trunk as not prior to 1910 – and likely not after WW II. I’d really like to get a key for the lock though as evertying is still in one piece, in wonderful shape, and appears functional. Is there someplace on this lockset that I’m not looking to find it’s part number? It may not have one but at least I can say I tried this first!
One thing I forgot to mention about this “salesman’s sample” trunk was that the gentleman I purchased it from had replaced it’s missing handles with pieces on an old leather belt of his and fastened them on with screws and a grommet…eww. This trunk measures 10″ high x 10″ deep x 16″ wide. I’d like to replace the handles with something more authentic (as is proper) what size/type handle and brackets would you recommend for this? The trunk has no wood pieces and is composed entirely of tin on the exterior with brass corners and lock set. I can e-mail photos if it helps. I know it’s a matter of personal taste at this point, but I’d like to base my decision on what would be the most authentic looking.
This little cutie of a trunk also needs a lid stay replacement as the original was made of woven canvas and has ripped in half, no longer functional. What size would I need and do you sell them this small?
#1 by Don Worthen on January 26, 2010 - 4:21 am
Quote
Recently obtained an old trunk that I believe to be made by Springfield Trunk Maker, Springfield, Illinois.
Most of the trunk hardware was originally COPPER plated. Would it be practical to attempt to retain as much of the COPPER as possible? How would you attempt to clean it?
Any idea on where to find information on the Springfield Illinois trunk maker would also be appreciated.
Don Worthen
Surprise, AZ
#2 by Administrator on January 26, 2010 - 6:55 am
Quote
Hello, I do not have a refer. for Springfield, other than it was as early as 1886 when they made trunks. I would try to retain as much copper plating as possible. Go easy on cleaning and buffing to keep the plating intact.
Steelwool, fine abrasive pads, very fine wire brushes, will clean the metal and not remove the copper. Be aware that copper is very soft and thus comes off easy.
Gary
Shenandoah Rest.
#3 by Phil Esno on January 26, 2010 - 9:09 am
Quote
Restoring a family trunk that was badly damaged and am in need of a Double lock. Have searched everywhere for a replacement with no luck. Any ideas?
#4 by Administrator on January 26, 2010 - 8:35 pm
Quote
Hello, we usually check stock at http://www.muffshardware.com for these. Muffs has some old parts pics on boards at the site. Have to call to buy them.
#5 by Joe Schramer on March 1, 2010 - 12:58 am
Quote
We have a tin embossed trunk much like the one shown on your website that we would like to restore. What kind of cleaner would you reccommend for the metal. how much would it cost if we sent the trunk to you for resto?
#6 by Administrator on March 1, 2010 - 4:15 am
Quote
We use water based cleaners, mineral spirits, Kotton Klenser with steelwool, etc. depending on how bad the tin is.
Our restorations inside and out, start at $550.00
Gary Daniel
Shenandoah Restoration
#7 by Kathy on March 10, 2010 - 10:30 am
Quote
What is the best way to clean tin on an old trunk. It is lightly rusted. You mentioned mineral spirits and kotton klenser with steel wool in the above blog. Can you tell me how to do that? Our tin is not embossed just flat tin over much of trunk.
#8 by Administrator on March 10, 2010 - 8:40 pm
Quote
It comes down to the question of whether you decide to paint the tin or not. If painted we sand lightly to smooth then use a chemical to turn the rust to a black primer and make it stop rusting. It is usually called Extend and sold in auto parts stores.
We prime and paint over it.
If not painting, you can use a sander or wire wheel on a drill to wear away the rust, then clean off and clear coat over the tin.
#9 by Administrator on March 10, 2010 - 8:42 pm
Quote
Mineral spirits and Kotton Klenser will work on very lightly rusted tin to clean it, it will also work on paint to clean up. Apply with steel wool and wipe clean afterward.
#10 by Kathy on March 11, 2010 - 7:58 am
Quote
We do not plan on painting it SO any more details about a sander or wire wheel? I have heard about brass bristles so the tin remains undamaged, but can you give me details. I did not see any for sale on your site. After I reach an acceptable look what do I put on the surface? You have metal polishes. Is that what I should use?
#11 by Administrator on March 11, 2010 - 11:30 pm
Quote
A fine wire wheel will do fine, brass is not necessary. Just use a Cup wire wheel in an electric drill. A 2-3″ inch wheel will work best. After the look is acheived, clean well and clear coat with a varnish, or polyurethane to seal the metal from moisture.
#12 by Susan on April 2, 2010 - 1:53 am
Quote
Do you recommend naval jelly for use on rusted tin? I haven’t decided yet whether or not to paint the tin. I assume that whatever I do with the rust, I will have to remove the wood slats over the tin to deal with any rust underneath? I spoke with the manufacturer of extend and was told that it should only be used in the rusted areas. If used on metal without rust, then it can cause rust. I am wondering it I heard correctly. Does this fit with your experience?
#13 by Administrator on April 2, 2010 - 6:57 am
Quote
Naval jelly can be used, we have better results with Extend. It is not needed on rust free metal, however some on it wont make a problem if the part is primed with a Rustoleum primer and painted. Everyones definition of rust is not the same, even a slight discoloration can be beginning rust.
Wood slats and some hardware on tin should be removed to completely get all the rust addressed.
#14 by Kathy on April 8, 2010 - 4:42 am
Quote
there is an old print in the lid of my trunk that I would like to try to keep. It is in fragile condition. How can I strengthen and preserve what is left of it.
#15 by Administrator on April 8, 2010 - 5:19 am
Quote
We usually use a product called Mod Podge available at Craft stores. Paint it on over the print and it will stiffen it and encase it in a clear fixative. You can also use Elmers glue and squirt behind the print with a needle syringe to glue it back to the lid.
#16 by Greg Ravenscroft on May 11, 2010 - 3:19 am
Quote
Starting a restoration on a 1800′s family trunk. The metal banding used is 4 1/2″ wide. I am looking for product to match. Any ideas where to get this?
#17 by Administrator on May 11, 2010 - 4:28 am
Quote
Is that a typo or is the banding really 4-1/2″ wide? I have no resource for that size banding. Tin covering on the outside is sold in sheets at hardware stores.
Shenandoah Restoration
#18 by Greg Ravenscroft on May 11, 2010 - 5:01 am
Quote
OK. (yes, it is four and a half inches wide)
#19 by Administrator on May 11, 2010 - 5:23 am
Quote
I would use thick galvanized sheet metal and then sand and paint. This material is all but impossible to find in small quantities.
#20 by Gordon Winston on May 13, 2010 - 11:41 pm
Quote
Inspired to restore my recent project, an old trunk. The inside liner was backed with an old newspaper that had an article about Casper Henning a trustee of Gideons. The internet revealed information about Henning from a 1941 American Churches yearbook. My antique trunk book discusses trunks from 1790 to 1930. How long did they make trunks after 1930? or could my trunk have been relined? If only these old trunks could talk.
#21 by Administrator on May 15, 2010 - 6:25 pm
Quote
Most trunk mfg stopped after 1930, a few held on and some are still made today. Generally only very old trunks were lined in newspaper. This trunk might have been re-lined later on.
#22 by Hattie Carter on May 22, 2010 - 6:16 am
Quote
Great website! I have a dome top trunk that has original paper on the areas between the wood slats and steel bands. (It was probably used to cover a lesser quality wood.) Most of the paper has flaked off. What do you suggest? Strip off all of the paper and use paste wax on the wood? Thank you in advance.
#23 by Administrator on May 22, 2010 - 8:30 am
Quote
We have removed the paper on a trunk like this, painted it white and re-papered the entire trunk. A tea stain coating afterward will yellow and age the paper. If you want the wood appearance, of course you can finish the wood. Make sure the wood is a type that will look nice after a stain and top coat.
Thank you for your compliment on the website.
Shenandoah Restoration
#24 by carolyn on June 5, 2010 - 2:38 am
Quote
I am restoring a steamer trunk. It has a large lengthwise crack in the lid. How can I shore it up? Gluing it will not do the job. Thanks for any advice.
#25 by Administrator on June 5, 2010 - 6:41 pm
Quote
Glueing and clamping a wide crack will only warp the lid out of shape, the wood has dried out and shrunk. We usually fill the crack with wood filler, sand and re-line the lid over the top of it. You can also shape a piece of wood to insert into the crack and use wood filler to complete the job. Last, a thin veneer can be used over the entire lid to cover the existing wood and the crack also.
#26 by Hilda on June 30, 2010 - 12:14 am
Quote
I’m working on a old trunk that was in storage for some time. The outside is coming along (waiting on parts from you!) but the inside STINKS! I plan to line it with cedar but want to get rid of the smell first. Any thoughts.
#27 by Administrator on June 30, 2010 - 5:15 am
Quote
First make a solution of water and vinegar and spray the paper lining down. Scrape the paper out after it is wet with a paint scraper. Let dry and spray the wood down with a bleach/water solution. After dry paint the surface with any color paint or varnish.
Cedar over the painted surface after it is dry.
#28 by Ryan on July 8, 2010 - 5:30 am
Quote
My wife just obtained a trunk from her Mother that we need help identifying/restoring. We’ve been told it was used by her ancestors when they came to America from Ireland 200 years ago. It’s not in terrible shape, but it isn’t great either.
What are some identifying factors?
We would very much like to restore the trunk, but don’t know where to start.
Help?
#29 by Administrator on July 9, 2010 - 4:13 am
Quote
A good way to identify is with the Trunk ID book sold at the site. Item A-0041 and A-0040 at our web store. One of these books is a restoration “how to” manual the other is a Trunk ID and value manual.
Solid wood trunks are the oldest, followed by leather covered, then tin and canvas covered.
We also have a page at the website that outlines basic restoration. It is the Hints and Procedures page at http://www.shenandoahrestoration.com/Hints.html
#30 by Cathy on July 24, 2010 - 10:26 am
Quote
I was advised to get myself a “box” to put my most prized possessions in. Being a sucker for historical items naturally my first thought turned to a steamer trunk for the purpose. After some hunting around a large geographic area I have managed to find and aquire 2 steamer trunks of different sizes (and a 3rd is on the way too, I was so taken by them). All of these trunks are tin with oak slats and two with only light rust but the third is almost entirely rusted out. I have to admit that I’m a bit nervous about sanding or wiring in order to get the rust off as the midsections of these trunks are all embossed tin. Should I be concerned abotu the amount of pressure I use and is there a solvent or cleaner that will aid with such a “scrubbing” without going to Extend? I also noticed that in an earlier posting you mentioned that removal of the slats is best to accomplish this, how is this best accomplished without denting or bending the tin underneath? Is there a tool that’s best to “pry” the slats off with or is it simply a matter of using the tack remover and trying to get them off by tack removal alone? On the inside of these trunks the curled tacks are barely visible in order to nip the ends for removal…it’s as if the wood has grown around the curled ends of the tacks over the years. Sorry it’s so long – but I’m truly excited to do this and eccstatic to have found your site where I can get replacement hardware and the like! Thanks!!
#31 by Cathy on July 24, 2010 - 10:31 am
Quote
Secondary to my previous post is the fact that one of the trunks’ leather handles…while they are still intact they could stand replacement although I hate to do this without first finding out the significance (if any) of the number that has been permanently embossed into the leather itself. I believe it’s 3069 and it’s the same number on both handles, on the visible sides of these handles (on the outside clearly visible to the eye). Does this number hold any significance to the trunk itse;f or is it merely a manufacturer’s ID having regard to the leather tanner? Thanks.
#32 by Administrator on July 24, 2010 - 7:18 pm
Quote
We often see numbers embossed into leather handles. This is a part number for the handle maker of that day. As far as we know it has no relevance to the trunk.
#33 by Administrator on July 24, 2010 - 7:26 pm
Quote
Congrats, Rotary wire wheels or wire brushes will not dent tin unless it is rusted very badly. Naval Jelly can be used on rust, but it should be followed by Extend if you are painting the tin. For wood slat removal use the tack lifter to lift the nail head then pull the nail with the nipper pliers. No need to cut off the nail inside. The nail will straighten as it comes out. This will sometimes dent the wood slat, in this condition use a small soft wood shim to pry against. Also use the wood shim under the pliers to pry out nails on tin. Some will break off and the remaining nail can be taken off the inside easily. Install the same slat in the same position with new nails.
#34 by Marcia on July 24, 2010 - 11:00 pm
Quote
I would like to know if anyone knows the value of an Edison Disc Phonograph Model @C250 … I have one and a lot of records to go with it also…. It is in excellent condition… I would love to sell it, if anyone would like to purchase it…. Thank You
#35 by Marcia on July 24, 2010 - 11:03 pm
Quote
I would like to include my e-mail address for info on the Edison Disc Phonograph if anyone is interested.. as joied2020@yahoo.com Thank You….
#36 by Administrator on July 25, 2010 - 1:48 am
Quote
Edison C-250 has a value of between $500 and $700
Records are $1 – $10 each.
#37 by Cathy on July 25, 2010 - 6:54 pm
Quote
Thanks for the advice on tack removal, it was MOST helpful and just confirmed what I had in my mind as the method for removal. Last night I spent 4-1/2 hours on the first of these three trunks removing the paper lining (x2 since someone had re-lined it over top of the original lining) and it’s now down to the bare pine. (I had done as you advised with tack removal and the lid stay and hinges came off with very minimal damage inside and out. Used a vinegar and water solution in a misting bottle to “wet” the lining and a scraper to remove the paper. The mouldy/mildewy smell inside the trunk is now not as pungent. Hoping for a sunny day today so I can set it out in the sun as well, but it will need a bleach and water solution as well as mould and mildew staining is still visible and would re-grow. What would you recommend as a mix ration for this solution? (water to bleach) 3:1, 2:1, 4:1? Is there a type of cloth or “scrubbing” utensil that’s best for giving the interior rough pine a “washing” for the purpose of getting rid of the mould/mildew, or just use a sturdy rag?
#38 by Administrator on July 25, 2010 - 7:11 pm
Quote
I would try about 4:1 solution and use a scrub brush, nylon bristle type. Something like a bathroom cleaning brush.
#39 by Cathy on July 25, 2010 - 7:13 pm
Quote
Ok thanks. I have a lift out tray in the largest of these three trunks that’s going to need to have the “hat box” cover re-built, as well as the section to the left in the dome lid (a new cover). What material is best to use for this purpose to obtain the curve of the hat box cover and light enough to be the lid section (flap) cover?
#40 by Cathy on July 25, 2010 - 7:34 pm
Quote
Where might I look on these trunks in order to determine who the original manufacturer was? Is there ever any sort of a craftsman’s mark or maker’s identification etc.? I’d love to be able to give them an age range and possibly trace them back some more. The information I have on their history is currently very limited. The one that I bought from it’s previous owner didn’t even have a history of how he came upon the trunk or how long he’d had it himself.
#41 by Cathy on July 26, 2010 - 3:03 am
Quote
Clean up has gone very well so far with your wonderful hints and tips page as well as this blog page, thank you ever so much. I do have one big question though…in the process of restoring this trunk, am I supposed to be removing EVERYTHING and just take it right down to the bare pine box in order to complete it, or leave any of the flat surfaces on after removing oak strapping and decorative embelishments?
#42 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 6:28 am
Quote
Thank you ! Actually we just updated the Hints page. Remove only the hardware and slats. Flat and embossed tin does not need to be removed, although some paint processes are easier on embossed tin when removed.
#43 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 6:30 am
Quote
Most trunks do not have a makers tag or label. Almost every town had a trunk maker and most did not put a label in them. Only the larger companies did this.
#44 by Cathy on July 26, 2010 - 7:56 pm
Quote
That’s great to know! For a bit there I thought I was going to be seeing a naked pine box before I was able to make further progress. Last night I acquired a very small trunk (possibly a salesman’s sample case or ladies cosmetics case…I’ve no idea of it’s original intended use but would love to find out!) I purchased it from a gentleman who bought it at an estate auction himself, so he doesn’t know it’s purpose or history. On the hasp type lockset (and it looks like it’s the original – once a polished brass) is stamped the manufacturer, “Excelsior, USA, Stampford Conn.” But I can’t see a part number anywhere in order to obtain a replacement for the missing key. It was most interesting reading the history of the Excelsior Hardware Co for sure, and that enabled me to estimate a jumping off point for dating for this trunk as not prior to 1910 – and likely not after WW II. I’d really like to get a key for the lock though as evertying is still in one piece, in wonderful shape, and appears functional. Is there someplace on this lockset that I’m not looking to find it’s part number? It may not have one but at least I can say I tried this first!
#45 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 8:02 pm
Quote
Cathy, try http://www.antiquekeys.net , perhaps they can help you. You might need to call them to discuss the lock and trunk to get it done.
#46 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 8:02 pm
Quote
Your small trunk might be a childs trunk, salesmans sample, or just a small case.
#47 by Cathy on July 26, 2010 - 8:07 pm
Quote
One thing I forgot to mention about this “salesman’s sample” trunk was that the gentleman I purchased it from had replaced it’s missing handles with pieces on an old leather belt of his and fastened them on with screws and a grommet…eww. This trunk measures 10″ high x 10″ deep x 16″ wide. I’d like to replace the handles with something more authentic (as is proper) what size/type handle and brackets would you recommend for this? The trunk has no wood pieces and is composed entirely of tin on the exterior with brass corners and lock set. I can e-mail photos if it helps. I know it’s a matter of personal taste at this point, but I’d like to base my decision on what would be the most authentic looking.
#48 by Cathy on July 26, 2010 - 8:10 pm
Quote
This little cutie of a trunk also needs a lid stay replacement as the original was made of woven canvas and has ripped in half, no longer functional. What size would I need and do you sell them this small?
#49 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 8:17 pm
Quote
We have 2 child trunk handles, and also one handle cap to fit. Look up L-4203 and SR-1100 at the site.
#50 by Administrator on July 26, 2010 - 8:20 pm
Quote
We do not sell a childs trunk lid stay, I suggest using a fabric material that is the same and double it over and nail on. Usually one on each side.